Change of Plans: Halls Creek Narrows

We’ve been planning on Salt Creek for months and on the day we were going to leave I got a phone call from a Ranger that changed our plans up completely.

Big Agnes Under the Stars Tent

He said some other camper decided to burn his toilet paper while in lower Salt Creek instead of carrying it out. There’s a big reason why you shouldn’t do that: he burned down 23 acres of cottonwoods and they had to shut the canyon down.


Change of plans

We looked over maps all day to try to find places to switch too. It was exhausting, but after hours we decided we still wanted to be in the desert — despite the heat. We settled on Halls Creek Narrows in Capitol Reef National Park.

It was an excellent choice!

Capitol Reef is kind of the forgotten National Park of Utah’s Might Five. Most people see the park from the road or the hikes just off the road, but forget that it is a long (60 miles), skinny (6 miles) park stretching down the the Waterpocket Fold. And it doesn’t disappoint.

The Heat of the Day

By the time we started on Thursday it was the hottest part of the day and we had about 10 miles to go to the entrance of the Narrows. We choose that point because the Ranger told us there wasn’t likely to be any water anywhere else, but there would be water down there.

Halls Creek Overlook

As we dropped off the cliffs from the trailhead the heat had already started to take its toll. I knew my body wasn’t happy with the heat, but I kept mentally checking myself for dehydration and drank about 2 Liters in the first 4 miles.

Bouncing from shade to shade we finally arrived at the Fountain Tanks to find the lower pools empty. That Ranger didn’t lie to us. We did however escape the heat by climbing up to the potholes above and found them to be full of water. After a few hours of cooling off at the tanks we trekked back into the sun and on to the Narrows.

Worn-out from being in the solar beat-down all day we stopped at the first pool in the entrance of the Narrows for camp.

Koontz on Halls Creek Narrows Chris Jones at the Fountain Tanks CRNP Camping at Halls Creek 1

The Heat of the Day…Again!

We woke up and explored the Narrows that next day with the goal to camp again in the same spot that night. The route through the Narrows took us through the twisted gorge and then hike up and over Halls Divide back to the camp, about 6-ish miles in all.

First I’ll say this about the Narrows: it was awesome in there. I love the deep canyons in southern Utah. The sandstone walls seem to reach forever up and its usually from a small insignificant stream continually flowing through.

Among the sandstone
Everything enclosed by walls
Feelin’ pretty small.

A Haiku for Capitol Reef National Park

You just have to go there to see it for yourself.

Then we started the hike across Halls Divide back to our tents and gear.

It was HOT!

We then cooled off at our camp and decided we would push for the Fountain Tanks after lunch so we had less milage to cover in the morning back to the car. Good choice, but one problem: the HEAT OF THE DAY…AGAIN!!!

This time we crushed out the 5 miles back to the tanks despite the heat. I felt pretty fried, but I was more hydrated compared to the day before and simply cruised up to the tanks. We made it in about 2 hours.

_MG_0289 _MG_0296 _MG_0300 _MG_0324 _MG_0331 _MG_0323 _MG_0333

Why Hadn’t We Been Hiking Like This Before?

The goal for that morning was to wake up and be out of camp by 7. I left at 7:02 am.

I walked with purpose that morning: I didn’t want to be going up that 700 ft. cliff-band in the sun. Why had we been hiking in the heat of the day before this? I don’t know, but it was nice to be in the shade and cool temps that morning. Made my quick speed worth it.

We arrived at the bottom of the uphill climb in just over an hour. Pretty good that morning because we averaged 3.5 mph compared to our usual 1.7 mph on the other days.

The uphill began in the shade and stayed in the shade.

Actually I got to the top of a cliff and thought we were there only to see another 100 ft of elevation left.


_MG_0293 _MG_0335 _MG_0336 _MG_0338 Tent_Trail_2 IMG_1250 IMG_1206 IMG_1252 IMG_1261

2 Replies to “Change of Plans: Halls Creek Narrows”

  1. David Ausere

    Great blog! I am planning on going there this November. What and where are water sources is the big question. You mentioned the fountain tanks and the entrance to the Narrows. Is that it?

    • Keith Howells Post author

      Hi David,

      When we went down that was the only water we found. We also went in July after a long stretch of no precipitation and 100+ degree weather. Water may show up earlier or in pockets in November. Those are the only reliable spots though.


Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *